Tuesday, December 6, 2016

Review: Women's Work: The First 20,000 Years - Women, Cloth, and Society in Early Times by Elizabeth Wayland Barber

I came across this book as part of the reference material in another book, which is often how I develop out my reading list, hopping through topics like stones across a creek. Though I purchased it last December in a post-Christmas book buying, I didn't start it for several months. Even so, this is not what I would call a quick read. It's an academic text written by an archaeologist (and weaver). Thus, it takes a methodical look at the evidence (and lack of evidence) around the work women did in the first 20,000 years of civilization. It requires a level of mental engagement that prevented it from moving quickly.

I didn't realize what I was getting into when I bought the book. I'm not sure I even knew what I was expecting until I got to chapter ten, Behind the Myths, in which she discusses the fascinating correlations between certain items of myth (such as a shirt dipped in dragon's blood will kill the wearer) and textile knowledge of the era (that there was a dye favored by royals which was nicknamed Dragons Blood and, if left in contact with the skin for a duration, would absolutely kill someone). That entire chapter was incredible, but I wouldn't have been able to enjoy it the way I did if she hadn't spent the previous nine chapters laying out the development of weaving, dying, sewing, and other crucial skills of the era. Just as I didn't know what I was expecting from the book, I didn't know how to accomplish it until the author did it for me.

History in this sense is not my forte. I love history for the stories it imparts and the lessons learned, but dates have never stuck well in my head, and so while I can recite entire sagas of the English Monarchy and discuss at length why Queen Victoria conducted her court as she did and how it influenced the courts of her descendants all the way through Elizabeth II, I have a rough time remembering when she ascended the throne. Thus, the first several chapters which are discussing the development and migration of society, and the references to those dates throughout are a bit lost on me. Barber, however, is a professor and has clearly encountered people like me before, so she provides graphs to help me follow along.

Speaking of her provided aids, Barber makes incredible use of her artistic skill to reproduce a number of important visual references. Early in the book, she shows how actually taking the time to try to reproduce historic weaving teaches a great deal about the context is which it is created, and provides the pictures of her own work doing so. When she talks about a Nineteenth Dynasty Egyptian weaving shop painted on a tomb discovered in the thirteenth century, she reproduces it for the reader. When she discusses the trade routes men took to sell wares while their women produced them, she draws simple line maps to give an idea of scale and distance. When she suggests that the Venus de Milo, whose arms would be held in an awkward position were they present, is in fact created in the exact position that Greek women held their spinning, she provides an artistic rendition of how the statue would look had the wood and wool accessories not been lost to time.

This makes a huge difference between an academic text and an engaging collaboration in understanding. I got to discover for myself the artwork that shows a change to the type of loom used in Egyptian weaving because the artwork was provided for me to examine. This elevates the text and provides engagement in a way that can be lost in a somewhat difficult topic to grapple with as history measured over the course of centuries.

The last chapter, technically labeled a postscript, was one that really pleased me to see, which was an examination of her methodology. Early in the book she explained that a lot of what constituted women's work in this part of civilization was made of perishable items - food, fabric, farming - and thus discounted for much of archaeology. That she takes such care to discuss how she went about doing the research that led to this book in the face of those challenges was both interesting and reassuring, as a description of methodology is often lacking in academic text provided for mass consumption. It pleased me greatly. She says, in reference to a gentleman who had influenced her in the field, "He never let his ego get in the way of learning, by hanging on to an idea because it was his." Wise words.

The book can be summed up by her last paragraph, and I hope that if Dr. Barber every stumbles on this she will not mind it reproduced here: "We women do not need to conjure a history for ourselves. Facts about women, their work, and their place in society in early times have survived in considerable quantity, if we know how to  look for them. Far from being dull and in need of fanciful paint to make it more interesting, this truth is sometimes (as far as the saying goes) stranger than fiction, a fascinating tale in itself."

The Three Rules of Fashion

I haven't done a post about fashion in a long time. It's not that I don't think about it still, I do (and in fact, I do more than I used to). It's that most of those thoughts are fleeting, thoughts better pursued directly on G+.

And that is where this post originated, before I decided to  move it to Blogger. The reason is the topic feels more permanent, less about the fleeting aspects of fashion (shoulder cutouts, I don't understand...) and more about the permanence of style. Fashion is what they create, Style is how you present. If you're interested in the chatter of various fashion choices, let me know and I'll add you to the Fashion and Style Circle on G+.

The Rules of Fashion

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Even if you've never followed them, you probably know that the old rules of what one wears are thoroughly smashed. "No white after Labor Day" has been relaxed to clarify that one shouldn't wear summery fabrics (such as white linen) once the temp drops (which might be November), unless you live in tropical areas (such as Florida), in which case the rules don't apply all. Almost every hard and fast fashion rule has undergone a similar obfuscation so that almost anything goes.

This is lovely from the freedom of expression angle and devastating from the "but how do I know if what I'm wearing is appropriate?" angle. Because the truth of the matter is that while the rules have gone, there is still an expectation of  "appropriate dress", which comes will all the cultural baggage of decades past and none of the rules to help one out.

The New York Times published an article back in October called "How to dress like an adult", in which the author addresses this exact issue. How do you mark that you're an adult now when a hoodie and sneakers is entirely appropriate attire for an adult? The old rules about what teenagers wear vs adults is long gone, with girls wearing high heels long before they turn 16 (or 18, depending on the height of the heel) and industry giants not owning a suit because their industry rejects it's formality. Vanessa Friedman, the author of the NYT piece, has distilled it down to three rules (you can call it guidance is rules makes you twitch):

1. Do not distract.
2. Think of your clothes as costume.
3. Learn to iron (and sew, and fold and invest in some good hangers).

She explains how these three rules cover a multitude of areas. She believes the first to be the most important, and it is invaluable, but the third is my personal favorite. The clothes you wear are far less of a concern than how you wear them. I have a pair of brown heels from Payless that I've owned for probably 10 years. I've replaced the heel tap and the insoles and they are my favorite pair of shoes. My personal philosophy of buy the best you can afford and that you really love, then use it until it falls apart, applies to clothing more than anything (it's where I developed the policy). So even though I now buy shoes that have a higher price tag out the gate, I still treat them the same - replace the parts you can replace until the shoes cannot be fixed, then mourn their death and find new ones.

A crumpled Chanel (which is a sin...) looks messy, where as a jacket from Target that is in good condition, ironed, and tailored will take you far.

Thoughts on these three rules?